The Basic Steps to Plushie Making!

Step 1: Designing

You need to have a drawing of your character. Once you have a character in mind, do a simple rotation of that character to the scale of your desired plushie size. This rotation will help you understand the pattern you will need to create and how your plushie will go together. Make sure you do a colored image if your plushie will be color. Take this with you to the fabric store for help with picking out fabric.

Step 2: Pattern making

In the example below (after the basic steps) I have provided the pattern for the Onigiri which is very simple. It’s a good idea to start simple and go with the simplest pattern possible. If you find yourself stumped with how to make a pattern there is an easy method to follow: Find an already existing plushie that has the shape and look you want- then taking tracing paper, lay it over the desired area and trace along the seams (sewn lines). This will give you a rough idea of the pattern shape it takes to create that look. Be sure to add at least 1/2 inch (although more probably wouldn't hurt) to this traced pattern to account for the “seam allowance”. 

Your plushie may need a “gusset” if you want it to look extra plump or rounder. The Onigiri Friend pattern uses a gusset to bring dimension to the plushie. Gussets are usually used for bellies, backs and snouts – they form the bridge between two other pattern pieces and are usually just straight strips of fabric. They can be tricky to design, however, so it’s best to look at a professional plushie with the gusset you want and trace it. I always add at least an extra 2 inches to my tracings all the way around as it’s always best to have extra left over. 

I’ve provided a simple pattern for you to use in making the Onigiri Friend. Please note the directions on each pattern piece. For some pieces you may be instructed to cut two of the same piece out.

Once the pattern is made - it’s time to choose your fabric.

Step 3: Choosing the fabric

Fabric choices are extremely important when putting a plushie together. You have to think about more than just the right color or feel of the fabric! For this demo, I’ll be using fleece and felt as they are very simple fabrics that do not fray and they are also cost effective.  They are also very commonly used for plushie making for these very reasons.

Some Fabric choosing Tips:

1. Shiny, Slippery fabrics can be hard to sew (especially by hand!) they’ll show poor craftsmanship and bad seams very easily. Unless you know what you’re doing, I would avoid using these types of fabrics at first. Also, be aware that attaching “fusible web” to them can cause unforeseen wrinkling and other unsightly bubbling of the fabric, so I don’t recommend it.
   
   
2. Fur fabrics can be a beast to sew! Be careful when buying fake furs as they can be difficult to sew even on a machine. If you are sewing them on a machine, be sure to brush all the loose hairs from them after cutting as well as brushing out your machine’s bobbin box between sewing fur pieces. Tiny loose hairs will gather here and can cause jams! Be sure to pay attention to the fur flow when cutting out your pieces, so they all flow right when you piece your plushie together. Buy an extra amount of fur because of this!
   
   
3.  Test your fabrics! If you pull on the fabric and it stretches- you’ll probably need to purchase some “fusible web”. It’s a product that is ironed on the “wrong side” of the fabric and helps stiffen it. If the fabric is too stretchy it makes it hard to sew even on a sewing machine. For some types of fleece which are semi-stretchable, I recommend using the fusible web. It’s purchased by the yard and don’t forget to ask for a set of instructions when you get it. If you want the stretchiness in the fabric just be advised it’s very tough to sew by hand and can be difficult even on a machine. Avoid pulling on the fabric while sewing it so you don’t end up with lumps. I try to avoid the stretchy stuff all together myself.
   
   
4. Test your fabrics twice!  If you notice that the raw edge of the fabric you’re looking at buying has little threads coming out – this means that it’ll fray.  “Fraying” simply put is the fibers of the fabric coming unwoven. This can spell disaster depending on what you want to use the fabric for.  I usually add a bit more of a seam allowance to fraying fabrics just to make sure they don’t come unwoven when the plushie is stuffed. You can purchase special glues at the fabric store to stop fraying edges, but they can be expensive and are not necessary as long as you’re not trying to leave a raw edge exposed and you make your seams tight.
   
   
5. Test your fabric one more time!  Put your hand under the fabric- if you can see though it then there could be a problem. You don’t want all your ugly back stitching to be visible. If you simply must have that semi-see-through fabric, my advice is to use the “fusible web” this will make a barrier to hide your stitches. You do not want those ugly stitches showing- unless you’re going for ugly. Also these fabrics can tend to be weak and easily torn or puckered when the plushie is finally stuffed. The fusible web will assist with preventing this, but unless it’s a must- try to stay away from these fabrics as well until you’re more experienced.
   
   
6. When in doubt of how much you need, buy more! If don’t know how much fabric you need for your plushie, just buy extra. The rule is that it’s always easier to cut away extra than to sew on more! You don’t want any unsightly seams in your plushie because you ran out of fabric for a piece. If you’re buying fabric with a directional pattern like stripes or fake fur, I defiantly recommend purchasing even more extra as you’ll be needing to match the direction of pattern flow and fur flow when you cut out your pattern pieces- meaning you’ll go through more fabric because of limitations in way you can cut out these pieces.

Step 4: Gathering the tools of Plushie making (or buying them if you don’t have them.)

You’ll need various tools to make a plushie- even if you use a sewing machine you’ll still need to buy all of these things. Follow your machine’s instruction booklet for basic sewing, needle, and thread choosing. This demo is designed more for hand sewing.

Let’s gather our tools:
-fabric
-sewing scissor (these are different from regular scissors)
-needles (if sewing by hand)
-needle threader (optional- but really helpful in threading your needle and cheap usually.)
-thread(s) (makes sure to one that matches and is hidden well against your fabrics so it doesn’t show up- unless that’s the look you’re going for. You may need to purchase more than one. I recommend not by the cheapest, just because they can break sometimes when sewing. Remember that the thread is what’s holding you plushie together. If you’re using a machine use the kind that says it’s for a machine.)
-marking pens or pencils (they sell special ones at the fabric store, as long as the mark doesn’t appear in the final plushie, a pencil is ok. Just test on your fabric to make sure it works for you. If you’re using a dark fabric they have special chalk-like pencils for these fabric types at the store.)
-pins (for pinning your fabric together of course.)
-pin cushion (optional) (very helpful to keep pins in though)
-stuffing (polyester is the usual here, but there are other types to choose from.)
-a paintbrush or other stick-like object for stuffing (if you’ve got long tubes or small areas to stuff this tool will be your best friend. Try not to use anything with a sharp point that may rip a hole in your fabric.  I’ve heard that chopsticks work well for this too.)

Step 5:  Write a quick list before you start sewing!

I always write a quick list of which pieces I need to sew first before other pieces. This is helpful in that it will organize your thoughts and make your time usage more efficient.  It also can be your friend and help reduce the number of “arghs” that might occur when you realize that you needed to have sewn one piece before finishing another.

Step 6: Cut out your pieces and Get Sewing!!!

Cut out your pattern pieces- if you’re afraid to ruin your drawn pattern then just photocopy it and cut the photocopy up. Remember that for pieces like legs, arms, ears and sometimes the body, you’ll need to cut out matching (but opposite pieces!). The easiest way to do this is: Take your fabric and fold it so that the “right” sides are touching. Pin your pattern piece down and cut it out. When you remove the pins and pattern and turn over the fabric, it should give you two matching, but opposite pieces. Make sure to pin your pattern pieces down before you cut.  Also- check your fabrics again- some fabrics will show your pin marks- if they do simply pin in the seam allowance area so the holes won’t show up. Remove the pattern and pins and then arrange your cut pieces together as they need to be sewn- it helps to stay organized. If you’re sewing with fur I recommend brushing it with a brush you don’t mind ruining. This will help remove extra hairs before they have a chance to get all over your other fabrics and your work area!

****Remember to always sew “right” side to “right” side- so that when you turn your plushie pieces inside out- the “right” sides will visible VISIBLE!!! That means that the side you'll see while you sew will be the "wrong" or ugly side of the fabric!!!****

Now you’re ready to pin the pieces together and sew! Some sewing by hand tips: I usually double over my stitches when sewing by hand.  I also loop my thread: I cut a longish piece of thread off from its spool, then send an end through the needle’s eye and then knot that end to the other end of the thread- kinda like making a needle necklace. I find this makes the seams stronger and it’s easier to knot the thread this way. You must knot one end of the thread! I double knot for extra security that it won’t untie while I sew. You’ll be putting stress on the thread as you sew, so you’ll want to make sure the knot doesn’t come out and the thread doesn’t snap. If your thread snaps, don’t panic. Simply set up the needle to sew again with more thread, then go back at least 1 inch before the place where the thread snapped and start sewing again. If it repeatedly keeps snapping on you, it’s one of two things: 1) you’re pulling to hard on the thread while sewing or 2) your thread is old and it’s been weaken by time. If you try to lessen your pulling and it still snaps- change the spool your using. Move on to another spool. This can happen especially if you’re using old thread, say like from your mother’s supply. Also there's no way to tell how long that thread has been sitting on the rack at the store before you bought it. If your sewing on a machine, consult your machine's owners manual first- it should have tips for you in the troubleshooting area.

*** Remember to leave at least a 2 inches opening somewhere (usually in the back or at the bottom or another more hidden spot) for you to be able to stuff the plushie! If your plushie has limbs or a tail that you’ll be attaching separately remember to stuff them before you attach them as this makes it so much easier to ensure they're stuffed well. You’ll be hand sewing this opening closed once your plushie is stuffed. You may want to make the opening bigger if you have particularly large or bulky limbs or other additions. When you turn your plushie inside out- everything MUST fit through that opening! You don’t want to sew it all together and then not be able to pull it through because you made the opening too small. It’s a very sad place to be- I’ve been there. You don’t want to.****

**************** Important!!! If you’re hand sewing be sure to pull your thread through the fabric so that the knot is not on the visible side. Also, when you are done with that thread or you need to end it so you can add more thread- you MUST knot the thread in the back to seal the stitches closed. You do this by bringing your thread to the back of the piece where all the ugliness is hiding. Take your needle through a few loops of stitches that you’ve already sewn. Be careful not to sew through the fabric so that it's visible from the "right" side.  Now knot the thread by sewing a loop and then going back through it. Do this a several times. Then cut the needle free and with the loose ends knot several times. This will lock the thread from coming out. If you’re using a sewing machine- it’s a good idea to pull the top threading to the back and knot it to the bobbin thread already there. You can also do some reverse stitching or "back stitching" instead if your machine does this function (see the owner's manual if you're unsure.) Though loose stitches are less likely with the machine sewing, it’s best to be safer than sorry. Skipping this step could result in absolute plushie explosion! If your stitches become loose (which can happen when the plushie is stuff due to expansion and stress on the stitches) your plushie may simply explode or fall apart. So knot once, knot twice, and then a third time for good measure! You want your plushie to be Fort Knox when you go to stuff it. ********************

Step 7: Stuffing

Take little tuffs of stuffing, as this cuts down on lumping and unusual bulges, and push it in the plushie via the opening you’ve left. This is AFTER you turning it inside out, so now the "right" side will be visible and the "wrong" or ugly side will be inside the plushie where no one will ever see it. While you add the stuffing make sure to squeeze the plushie to move the stuffing around. If you want your plushie to be more huggable, put less stuffing in- if you want it to be fat and stand up straighter- add more stuffing. Watch your seams as you stuff- especially if you hand sew- that way you’ll be able to repair a popping seam before it bursts if you should need to. If you have limbs that will be attached separately, stuff them BEFORE you sew them in place on the main plushie body. They'll be a really difficult, if not impossible, to stuff if you try to do it after you attach them.

Step 8: Sewing the opening close and then you’re done! 

You’re almost done. Now you’ll just need to sew that opening close. I recommend pinning it to make it easier to sew. Just don’t sew the pins into the plushie! After you’ve sewn it close- squeeze your plushie to move the stuffing around. This will help remove or lessen bumps if you have them. Plus you'll need a hug after all that hard work.

This ends the Basic Plushie Making Steps and Tips. Now it's on to the Onigiri Friend Plushie Making Demo!!!

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